24 Feb 2023 – After a midnight arrival, our first day in Mumbai was a full assault on the senses. Heat, dust, smells, amazing colours, noise and the never ending beep beep beep and intensity of the traffic, 24/7.
The first task of crossing the road in front of our hotel was daunting but we quickly learned to follow the locals and allow the traffic to flow around us like rocks in a stream. A bit nerve wracking but it seems to work (mostly).
Mumbai traffic
Standard procedure is to drive with one hand on the wheel and the other on the horn. The horn is to claim your position and let other road users you are there – at home we use the horn sparingly as a safety warning or perhaps an aggressive response – but here it is the number one driving assistance tool, and used liberally.
Traffic lights, white lines, indicators, seatbelts, helmets etc are considered entirely discretionary (except when the traffic police are on duty)
If the gap ahead is more than 50% of the width of your car – then go for it. Someone else will yield before you do.
In fact, he who hesitates, quickly finds themselves behind one hundred cars who didn’t!
Streetlife
In Mumbai, space is at a premium and the street traders live and work in tiny shopfronts, some only 1m x 1m. Most of the action happens on the street, with only a few glass fronted airconditioned shops, typically selling gold jewellery or electronics. The market areas are a glorious riot of colour, sound and smell, with everything lovingly displayed and frequently dusted to keep off the grime from the streets.
